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Esthetician Talk

Let’s talk skin!

Clogged Pores, Acne & Breakouts

 

Essential Tips for clearer skin and smaller pores

 

Scan your Skin care regimens for irritants

Your home care regimen is only as effective as its weakest product, so know what you are using. Irritants can include- essential oils, citrus extracts, menthol and denatured alcohol. They can cause daily irritation which will extend the time it takes for skin to heal from past breakouts and make oily skin worse. Acne is an inflammatory condition so anything you do to worsen the inflammation will only make your skin harder to treat.

Be sure your skin care and make-up products are right for your skin type

If you have oily skin but are relying on thick creamy moisturizers it’s time to change to lighter formulas like a gel-cream or even a gel. The thick creams often exacerbate blemish prone areas and clog pores. Also watch your make-up products. Solid make-up products like stick foundations, cream blushes and concealers should be avoided. They usually rely on wax or wax-like ingredients in their formulas and will only clog your pores. Try to only use a gel, light fluid lotion and mineral make-up.

 

Use a well formulated BHA product

BHA is also known as Salicylic Acid. Keeping Salicylic Acid in your daily routine not only exfoliated the surface of your skin (fading discolorations) it also penetrates oil to reach inside your pores, dissolving clogs that lead to blackheads, white bumps and breakouts. Once you can get rid of the substances that are clogging and enlarging your pores, you’ll see them return to their original appearance.

Salicylic Acid is also a potent anti-inflammatory reducing redness. So in 1 product you reduce the likelihood of developing a breakout and speed the fading of post-acne marks you have now!

 

How to Get a Great Wax

 

  1. For your first wax allow your hair to grow for at least 2 weeks but 4 is preferred.
  2. Stay on this schedule until your Esthetician advises you otherwise.
  3. NEVER shave of tweeze between your waxing appointments. This throws off your hair growth pattern and you will never have the smooth skin that you want.
  4. EXFOLIATE!! Always exfoliate on the day of your waxing appointment. Do not exfoliate to the point where your skin is sore. It’s recommended that use an exfoliating mitt in the shower on a daily basis.
  5. Never use lotion or body oils on the day of your waxing. These products will interfere with you waxing service.
  6. If you have or have ever had a problem with bumping (looks like a breakout but it is actually your follicles reacting to the waxing) bring a tube of Polysporin to your waxing appointment and apply immediately afterwards. Continue using the Polysporin as long as the bumps remain. If this happens it can last up to 2 weeks. After a few waxing appointments this will stop.
  7. If you are nervous about your waxing hurting, you can apply a numbing agent 30 minutes prior to your appointment. This is will your skin slightly and take the discomfort down a great deal.
  8. Above all, Relax, your Esthetician is a professional and has been well trained.

 

DURING YOUR APPOINTMENT

  1. Remember to breathe. Holding your breath causes you to tense up. Exhaling during the pull relaxes you.
  2. Depending on what you are getting waxed, you will be guided into positions that assure the best wax. Your Esthetician may even ask you to hold the skin tight. The tighter the skin the less it hurts.
  3. Inform your Esthetician if the wax is too hot (it does however need to be warm)
  4. Minor blood spotting is normal, especially if hair has been shaved over a period of time or your hair is course and thick.
  5. Your Esthetician will apply a post waxing calming gel after waxing.

 

HOMECARE

Now you have smooth beautiful skin, you want to keep it this way! Home care is a must and it’s easy to follow.

  1. Schedule your next appointment before you leave. Keeping on schedule will help you maintain smooth skin and will greatly decrease the amount of hair that grows back.
  2. Avoid the sun the day of your waxing and make sure to use sun block.
  3. If you are prone to ingrowns of the first hint of one, apply an ingrown eliminating and preventive product. Don’t wait until they become an issue to address them
  4. Continue to exfoliate daily to rid yourself of dead skin build up that will trap the hairs that cause ingrown. If you get an infected ingrown use a Q-tip and apply hydrogen peroxide to the area. This will kill the infection.
  5. Do Not Pick!!! Picking causes scars!!!

 

Foods that stimulate more acne

All dairy products with the exception of eggs are triggers for acne prone skin.

Organic dairy still contains over 59 naturally occurring androgen hormones that mean to make a baby cow grow big and strong. These hormones wreak havoc on acne prone skin.

Avoid foods that are high in iodine. Iodine irritates the follicular wall and stimulates a breakout. You can purchase salt without iodine at the super market.

Eat the least amount of processed foods as possible including sugary drinks. Processed foods are loaded with iodize salt and sugar.

Jamba juice, The Naked brand juice and vitamin waters are full of sugar and not as healthy as they would like us to believe. Stick to water.

Peanuts are problematic due to their androgen hormone content.

Soy is also a food that stimulates hormones and should be avoided.

 

Eat as many fresh fruits and vegetables as possible.

When eating out order salads, a protein, a side of steamed or sautéed vegetables.

Fresh fruit for dessert is the best.

You can cook with as many spices and herbs as you would like. Healthy food doesn’t mean bland.

Eat nuts that grow on trees such as almonds, walnuts, pine nuts, pecans, cashews, etc., Unsalted of course.

Watch out for almond milk that contains Carrageen will trigger a flare-up. The Silk brand of almond milk is safe for acne prone skin as is coconut milk.

Stay Away from the following:

Dairy, Odwalla Juice, Salted Snack foods, Refined Sugar, All Cheese, Chips, Iodine rich foods,

Jamba Juice, Soy, Milk, Coffee Creamers, Tofu, Processed sugary snacks, Naked Brand Juice,

Edamame, All Algae (greek) Yogurt, Iodized Cooking Salt, Soy Sauce, Sweetened drinks,

Whipped Cream, Asian Marinades, Seaweed/Kelp, Cakes/Cookies, Peanuts, Ice Cream,

Multi-vitamins w/iodine, Peanut Butter, Sweetened Coffee, Candy, Icing, Plankton,  Asparagus,

Protein shakes, Creatine, Pre-post work out shakes

 

Is Dermaplaning Right for me?

What is Dermaplaning?

It is a manual form of exfoliation of the skin that resurfaces dull, dehydrated skin. It is performed by a certified, licensed Esthetician by using a surgical blade that gently exfoliates and effectively removes the outer most layers of dead skin cells, leaving the skin immediately smooth, supple and vibrant. In addition to providing a deep yet gently exfoliation it also removes the fine vellus hair (peach fuzz)

What Dermaplaning Can Provide                                

Pros of Dermaplaning 

Removes light surface wrinkling

No use of chemicals therefore, less irritation

Improves skin texture

More affordable than chemical peels

Helps unblock blackheads

Treatment time is only 30 minutes

Reduces the appearance of pore size

No down time

Removes peach fuzz (vellus hair)

Generates new healthy cells

Removes 2 weeks of dead skin build up

Enhances penetration of skin care products

Dermaplaning FAQ:

Q: Is Dermaplaning right for me?

A: If you have dull, dry, dehydrated and/or congested skin, it is often because you have a surface barrier of dead cells that are not allowing topical products to penetrate. At the same time, impurities from within are trapped and as well underlying new cells are unable to surface. Once your skin is Dermaplaned, it accelerates and aids in the sloughing off of the dead skin that barrier is removed and the skin begins to respond to skin care products you apply.

Q: Will the hairs on face grow back thicker or darker?

A: No. The hair on your face is called vellus hairs and it’s physiologically impossible to grow back thicker. It will grow back the exact size, shape and color, therefore the main structure of vellus hair does not change and it is not altered by Dermaplaning.

Q: How often can you have Dermaplaning?

A: Dermaplaning is usually performed every 4-5 weeks. Treating the skin in this manner actually removes 2-3 weeks of dead skin cells.

Q: Is Dermaplaning recommended for Acne skin?

A: No. If you have acne or an over production of sebaceous gland oils, Dermaplaning is not recommended. Acne begins in the hair follicle and when the hair is removed it can aggravate of stimulate acne breakouts.

Q: Is Dermaplaning safe?

A: Yes. Dermaplaning is a safe treatment that is quick and pain free. There is no swelling or pain associated with the procedure. Most people say it feels good and there is absolutely no down time.

Q: Are there any contraindications to Dermaplaning?

A: Yes- Contraindications include: Nickel Allergy, Numerous Raised Lesions and Inflamed Acne.

 

Lightening Brown Spots & Uneven Skin Tone

Regardless of your ethnic background or skin color, eventually most of us will struggle with some kind of pigmentation problem. Your skin can appear lighter or darker than normal in concentrated areas or blotchy uneven patches of discoloration.

Brown Spots: Causes & Solutions

Skin pigmentation problems occur because the body produces too much or too little melanin. Melanin is the pigment in skin produced by specific cells called melanocytes. It’s triggered by the enzyme tyrosinase, which creates the color of our skin, hair and eyes. The faulty melanin production is primarily caused by chronic sun exposure or hormones due to pregnancy or the use of birth control pills.

How to Treat?

Start with Sunscreen

Stores are filled with products claiming to lighten skin but the FIRST line of defense is Smart Sun Behavior. This means avoidance or at the very least careful exposure – 365 days a year with liberal application and when needed reapplication of a well-formulated sunscreen. This will allow for some repair as well as protection from further damage. Aim for a SPF of 25 or higher with UVA protecting ingredients of Titanium Dioxide & Zinc Oxide. Using effective lightening ingredients, exfoliant’s, peels or even laser treatments without sunscreen will prove to be a waste of time and money. So start with a good sunscreen and use it daily. Terrame carries an organic sunscreen line COOLA that has plenty different textures and scents to your liking.

The most successful treatments use a combination of topical products containing melanin-inhibiting ingredients, a well-formulated sunscreen and a retinol product. Depending on how your skin responds to these steps our Estheticians may lead you to try either a topical treatment or chemical peel.

Topical Treatments

Topical vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) has shown to be effective in inhibiting melanin production.

Topical hydroquinone is a key step in reducing or eliminating skin discolorations. You can get a 2% hydroquinone from many skin care companies out on the market. There are also natural lightening ingredients that are proven just as effective as hydroquinone and many choose to start with this route first. Natural lightening ingredients include citrus extracts, kojic acid, licorice extract, bearberry extract, Indian gooseberry, Giga white, white mulberry extract and Vitamin B3.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

In the form of Lactic and glycolic acid are the most researched forms of AHA’s because they have a molecular size that allows effective penetration into the top layers of the skin. There is a good amount of evidence that if you combine AHA’s with a lightening agent, retinol and of course a good sunscreen that AHA’s can be very effective for improving the overall appearance of sun-damaged skin and possibly helping other ingredients penetrate better.

 

Sources: Journal of American Dermatology – International Journal of Dermatology

 

“Over the Counter” Skin care vs. “Cosmeceuticals”

Many ask the question: What is the difference in professional “spa” skin care products vs. “over the counter” products found in drug and retail stores.  Too often, consumers fall under the spell of cosmetic company marketing and advertising claims and waste their money on products that really don’t work.

 

Over the counter Products – Sold in stores such as Target, Macy’s Nordstrom’s, Saks, Dillard’s, Belk, etc.

  • Articles intended to be rubbed, powdered, sprinkled or sprayed on, otherwise applied to the human body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance without affecting the body’s structure of function.
  • OTC beauty products can only penetrate the first layer of skin (aka the dead layer).
  • OTC cosmetics are also manufactured in very large batches and are packed with almost as many preservatives as “active” ingredients! Many OTC products simply do not penetrate the skin barrier where the ingredient formula would have a true benefit to the skin.

Cosmeceutical product– Sold by licensed professionals in Spa’s, Med-Spa’s and Doctor offices

  • Cosmeceutical products – A cosmetic product with pharmaceutical grade ingredient identified as a cosmetic product to have medicinal or drug like benefits. They reputedly contain biologically active ingredients.
  • Cosmeceuticals are the “happy medium” between pharmaceutical and cosmetic. It is a cosmetic that actually has biological action but is regulated as a cosmetic.
  • Cosmeceuticals penetrate the bottom layers of the epidermis (aka live tissue) and when applied can make real changes.

What differentiates between OTC & Cosmeceutical product

  • Full disclosure of ingredients
  • Higher % of active ingredients
  • Lower pH levels
  • Better quality ingredients – pharmaceutical grade
  • No results vs. Results

Do you know The Risks to Buying Skincare Online?

Most people don’t know that it is illegal for many high-quality skin care lines to be sold on any skincare site, Amazon or other unauthorized retailers that do not have licensed Estheticians on staff. Unfortunately there are many unauthorized retailers trying to profit from skin care lines at the expense of your skin and wallet.

Cosmeceutical products should be recommended by a licensed Esthetician to ensure you are using the correct products on your skin and skin’s conditions / concerns. This way you will also be educated on how to use the products correctly to ensure optimal results.

These are a few of the risks you take in purchasing skin care products online from unauthorized sites.

  1. The product maybe completely fake just in similar packaging.
  2. The products maybe expired. Spas may illegally sell their inventory on these sites (especially one that closes their business) and the product is likely near expiration or already expired. They also don’t store the products at proper room temperature and they will likely lose their efficacy. Many anti-aging products stability is based on normal room temperature and proper packaging.
  3. Some may think they are saving money buying products online, however you need to consider the risks and the waste of money if the products is ineffective.

 

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Midtown Salon and Blow Dry Bar

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3613 Memorial Parkway SW
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